PNG November to December 2009

PNG November to December 2009
After a decent stay at Jayapura we headed off to the northwest islands of PNG, The Bismark Archipelago. All ideas of sailing went out the window when we encountered winds from the SE exactly where we headed. Our "sailing" mates Blue Moon, headed north to the Equator in search of a breeze. The unable seaman said "bugger the diesel cost put the iron horses on and we will be there in one less overnight". By luck, rather than the Captains drift calculations, the huge logs (up to 1mtre diameter by 20metres) stayed out of our way.
Motoring into Ninigo islands, an atoll of 8 islands and 200 people, we were met by a local chief Solomon on his sailing canoe and led into a beautiful safe anchorage. A wonderful introduction to the Pacific Islands. We were welcomed with fruit and vegetables and traded for fish and lobsters. The villagers made us welcome and showed us how to cook and where the best fishing grounds were. Quite sad though, one person a day dies from malaria in this group. We don't venture ashore after 5pm where there are villages and people.
After 10days time to move on to the next famous atoll, The Hermit Islands, made famous by Jacques Cousteau, for diving and snorkelling. Here we found a deserted island, Makan, where we could make BBQs and stay on shore after dark. Great coral reefs and evening moonlit swims.
A few miles away we anchored at the main village islands and found such friendly and enterprising people. The village huts were tidy and clean with panelled woven walls and roofs, both single and two storey. They had high community values.
There is even an appointed island tourguide to make life easier for the yachties. While predominantly Christian, there are "the backsliders", in the community who drink and smoke and eat shellfish. They were all great fun and came to boat for "western" cooking lessons and the kids sung hyms on the bow. The highlight was a dinner of coconut crab, cooked in the local ovens and brought out to the boats. Sarah and I were in heaven, no cooking, delivered take away food.
Unlike other PNG islands that we encountered later on, the villagers here had solar panel and generators, so that they could run HF radios and watch and listen to DVDs and music. They borrowed our DVD collections and watched movies to well into the morning hours. David and John spent time with the men, assisting in fixing the generators and broken solar panels. Education was highly valued in the Bismark Archipelago and most children went to school, even it meant canoeing to or staying with relatives on the various scholl islands.
The winds had changed by now and we had several huge squalls, one which resulted in Blue Moon dragging the whole mooring and line across the bay at 5am,. She headed directly for the reef passing within a metre of our starboard side. Much excitement, but within minutes the villagers had launched 3 of their open boats with outboards into the 2 metre swell and came to assist.
After 2 great weeks time to move onto New Britain for Xmas and New Year in Kavieng.
And the good ship Pura Vida sailed most of the 300 nautical miles. The swell though kept the AB well off her food, and the Captain, as usual, had to do everything (or so he would tell you).
It was so nice to put the anchor down close to an island, Nusalik, which had a beautiful small resort built in the traditional native style. It caters mainly for surfers from Australia. And we were 10 minutes dingy ride to the town which had supermarkets and ice-cream cones. We were soon learned that we were back in the land of expensive food items. No more Asia prices and $2 meals ashore.
As we wait out some rainy weather, thought I would pen some details of life in these remote places. The Captain is happy as all water tanks are full, the AB can wash her hair without the usual whine from the water warden.
At Ninigo Islands we are anchored in beautiful blue water surrounded by a protection of reefs.
Although at the moment there is a swell coming thru that makes V feel a bit seasick (or was that sick of the sea!).
This week we have interacted quite a lot with the villagers as their english is very good. They have no means of communication- radio, TV, phones, but they do have a couple of DVD players. They have borrowed our DVDs and spent all night watching them. They just come out to the boats for a chat.
We have been plyed with pumpkins, sweet potatoes, bananas, fish and lobsters and a coconut crab, and the odd sago (!!) cake.
In return Blue Moon and us have fixed fish lures, tested solar panels, given away books, magazines and a compass and old spectacles, and our own banana bread. We also burned and gave them several CDs of photos we took of them.
David joins them for the afternoon volley ball match when its not raining and he isn't snorkelling and spear fishing. Must say his skills are the best of the lot at VB. They are better fishermen.
The villagers get lots of clam meat, 100 kgs, which they take to the mainland and use the proceeds to buy necessary provisions like rice and fishing line and some clothes.
Just some trivia
Thinking about our provisioning in Jayapura, Indonesia before we left for PNG. Lots and lots and what did $10aud (85,000 rupiah) buy us.
A tooth filling for David. The dentists in town only work 7pm-9pm because they cant make enough money. The main job is usually working an admin job for the government.
20litres of petrol, 4 cans of beer (it is heavily taxed .. to stop domestic violence), 2 cups of good coffee at the only cafe in town, case of soft drink, 2 shirts for David, 2 pairs of thongs, 70 eggs, 1.5kgs of large king prawns, 42 bus rides, 8 pkts of cigarettes to feed the captains addiction, 2 .5 kgs of potatoes, 11kgs of rice, 6kgs of limes
I am guessing that we wont be getting such cheap provisions again.
So life on the ocean waves continues at a slow pace..