From Borneo to PNG

From Borneo to PNG

Its about 3000 nautical miles (almost 6000kms) from the tip of Borneo to Papua New Guinea. Quite a hike for 5 months.

After leaving Borneo, we headed east and crossed the Sulu Sea, nearly 5000metres deep. Amazing night passages , starry nights, quiet seas and a not so quiet engine running. Reached the island of Sulawesi in Indonesia to find “IT CLOSED”. It was Ramadan, Muslim fasting season and it appeared that, except for the Chinese businesses, the towns were closed. Just refueled and kept going east onto more picturesque islands off Bacan, Halamera.

By now we had been sailing, just the “two of us” for about 3 weeks. So it was a great time for celebration when we met up with Blue Moon of Oz in Bacan, and they had just caught a large Tuna. Sashima and champagne to celebrate the reunion.

From there we tried to daysail and find some beautiful anchorages with Blue Moon. Deserted beaches where the Captain could fulfil his passion for building huge fires and BBQs. Blue water and coral and lots of local Indonesian villagers who came out to the boat wherever we were.

Finally we reached the first port, Sorong, in Irianjaya, the western half of Papua. The population(2 million) is spread thinly over the 2 provinces and is made up of a strange mixture of Papuans and Indonesians who have been resettled from other parts of Indonesia under the “trans migrassi” scheme. They fill the towns, litter the coastline, fish the seas dry and build mosques everywhere. But they are very friendly and helpful.

Trying to squeeze into these small harbours filled with fishing boats was always fraught and David’s desire to get as close to the fuel depots and markets as possible set us high and dry at low tide. Just as well we have bilge (2 ) keels to sit on the bottom till the tide came in!!

This time of year is the start of North East/West Monsoon and the seas came crashing onto the shores of Irianjaya. So our anchorages where on off-shore islands or well protected harbours. So it was a few overnighters to find calm anchorages.

At Manokawri, the next biggest port/town, we anchored in a very safe but filthy harbour. The stilt houses built on the shore even had pig hutches built over the water. So it was awake at 5am with the blaring mosques and squealing pigs wanting food.

It was here that Virginia found “blood on the streets”. She thought that chickens had been slaughtered. But no it was the first sight of Beetle Nut. The islanders chew this nut and it has a bright red juice that they spit anywhere!!!

The next 3 weeks took us along more wonderful islands filled with wrecks from the WW2. and beautiful people in the islands of Yamna, Wakde, and Biak. Lots of snorkeling and the start of spearing fish and lobsters.

Our final port in Indonesia was Jayapura, where we filled our boat with provisions for the long haul home and indulged in coffee and Chinese food. This would be the last of the cheap Asia living.

So onto the islands in N/W PNG after much hassles with the PNG consulate in Jayapura trying to get a visa.